Backgammon

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As we have dicussed in the last article, Backgammon is a casino game of skill and good luck. The aim is to move your pieces carefully around the board to your inside board while at the same time your opposition shifts their pieces toward their inside board in the opposite direction. With competing player checkers shifting in opposing directions there is bound to be conflict and the requirement for specific tactics at specific times. Here are the two final Backgammon strategies to finish off your game.

The Priming Game Plan

If the aim of the blocking plan is to hamper the opponents ability to shift his pieces, the Priming Game plan is to absolutely block any activity of the opponent by building a prime – ideally 6 points in a row. The competitor’s pieces will either get bumped, or result a battered position if he/she at all attempts to leave the wall. The ambush of the prime can be established anywhere between point two and point eleven in your game board. As soon as you have successfully constructed the prime to stop the movement of the opponent, the opponent does not even get a chance to toss the dice, that means you move your pieces and roll the dice yet again. You’ll be a winner for sure.

The Back Game Strategy

The goals of the Back Game strategy and the Blocking Game strategy are similar – to hinder your opponent’s positions in hope to boost your chances of winning, but the Back Game technique relies on seperate techniques to achieve that. The Back Game plan is often employed when you’re far behind your competitor. To compete in Backgammon with this strategy, you need to hold 2 or more points in table, and to hit a blot late in the game. This plan is more challenging than others to play in Backgammon because it requires careful movement of your pieces and how the pieces are relocated is partly the outcome of the dice roll.

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Las Vegas 2024 Super
Bowl Streaker!

In exceptionally general terms, there are three chief game plans employed. You must be able to hop between tactics instantly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is comprised of building a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you are able to manage, to barricade in the opponent’s checkers that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most adequate procedure at the start of the match. You can build the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game continues.

The Blitz

This involves closing your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your challenger on the bar. For example, if your challenger tosses an early 2 and shifts one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you can play six/one 6/1 eight/three eight/three. Your opponent is then in serious difficulty taking into account that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have two or more checkers in your competitor’s home board. (An anchor spot is a position consisting of at least 2 of your checkers.) It must be employed when you are significantly behind as it much improves your opportunities. The best locations for anchors are close to your competitor’s lower points and either on adjacent points or with one point separating them. Timing is integral for an effective backgame: after all, there’s no reason having two nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break down this right away, while your opposer is moving their checkers home, because you don’t have other additional checkers to shift! In this situation, it is better to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position until your opposer gives you an opportunity to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to attempt and get your opponent to hit them in this situation!