Archive for March, 2022

The Essential Details of Backgammon Tactics – Part 2

As we dicussed in the previous article, Backgammon is a game of ability and good luck. The aim is to shift your pieces safely around the game board to your inner board while at the same time your opposing player moves their pieces toward their home board in the opposing direction. With opposing player chips shifting in opposite directions there is going to be conflict and the need for specific tactics at specific times. Here are the two final Backgammon tactics to round out your game.

The Priming Game Tactic

If the purpose of the blocking plan is to slow down the opponent to move their chips, the Priming Game tactic is to completely barricade any movement of the opposing player by building a prime – ideally 6 points in a row. The competitor’s chips will either get bumped, or result a damaged position if he/she at all attempts to escape the wall. The ambush of the prime can be built anywhere between point two and point eleven in your game board. Once you’ve successfully assembled the prime to prevent the movement of your opponent, the opponent doesn’t even get a chance to roll the dice, that means you move your checkers and roll the dice yet again. You will win the game for sure.

The Back Game Tactic

The goals of the Back Game technique and the Blocking Game technique are similar – to hinder your opponent’s positions hoping to improve your odds of succeeding, however the Back Game strategy utilizes alternate techniques to achieve that. The Back Game strategy is frequently utilized when you are far behind your competitor. To play Backgammon with this strategy, you need to hold 2 or more points in table, and to hit a blot late in the game. This strategy is more complex than others to employ in Backgammon because it needs careful movement of your checkers and how the checkers are relocated is partially the outcome of the dice toss.

 

Backgammon – Three Main Schemes

In extraordinarily general terms, there are three chief techniques used. You need to be agile enough to switch techniques instantly as the action of the game unfolds.

The Blockade

This is comprised of creating a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you can manage, to block in the opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most adequate tactic at the start of the match. You can create the wall anywhere inbetween your 11-point and your two-point and then move it into your home board as the match continues.

The Blitz

This consists of closing your home board as fast as as you can while keeping your opposer on the bar. e.g., if your competitor rolls an early 2 and shifts one checker from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a 5-5, you can play 6/1 6/1 8/3 eight/three. Your opposer is now in big-time calamity because they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your home board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a position filled by at least 2 of your pieces.) It would be played when you are extremely behind as this strategy much improves your chances. The better locations for anchors are close to your opponent’s lower points and also on adjacent points or with a single point separating them. Timing is important for a powerful backgame: after all, there is no point having 2 nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then required to break down this straight away, while your competitor is shifting their checkers home, considering that you don’t have any other extra pieces to move! In this case, it’s more favorable to have checkers on the bar so that you can preserve your position until your competitor gives you a chance to hit, so it may be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your competitor to get them in this case!

 

The Essential Basics of Backgammon Strategies – Part 2

As we dicussed in the previous article, Backgammon is a game of skill and pure luck. The goal is to move your chips safely around the board to your home board while at the same time your opponent moves their chips toward their inner board in the opposing direction. With competing player checkers heading in opposing directions there is bound to be conflict and the need for specific techniques at particular instances. Here are the last 2 Backgammon strategies to finish off your game.

The Priming Game Tactic

If the aim of the blocking tactic is to slow down the opponent to shift her chips, the Priming Game plan is to completely barricade any movement of the opponent by constructing a prime – ideally 6 points in a row. The opponent’s pieces will either get hit, or result a battered position if he ever attempts to escape the wall. The trap of the prime can be setup anyplace between point two and point eleven in your half of the board. After you have successfully built the prime to prevent the activity of the opponent, your competitor doesn’t even get a chance to roll the dice, that means you move your chips and toss the dice again. You’ll be a winner for sure.

The Back Game Tactic

The goals of the Back Game strategy and the Blocking Game technique are very similar – to hurt your competitor’s positions hoping to better your odds of winning, however the Back Game plan relies on different tactics to do that. The Back Game plan is often utilized when you are far behind your opponent. To compete in Backgammon with this strategy, you have to control two or more points in table, and to hit a blot late in the game. This tactic is more difficult than others to employ in Backgammon seeing as it requires careful movement of your chips and how the checkers are relocated is partially the outcome of the dice roll.

 

Backgammon – Three Basic Schemes

In exceptionally general terms, there are 3 chief techniques employed. You need to be agile enough to switch game plans quickly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is composed of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you are able to achieve, to lock in your opponent’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most adequate tactic at the begining of the match. You can create the wall anyplace between your eleven-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the match advances.

The Blitz

This consists of locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. For example, if your opposer tosses an early two and shifts one checker from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a five-five, you are able to play 6/1 six/one eight/three 8/3. Your competitor is now in serious difficulty taking into account that they have two pieces on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have two or more anchors in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a point filled by at a minimum two of your pieces.) It should be played when you are significantly behind as this action much improves your opportunities. The strongest areas for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s smaller points and either on adjoining points or with a single point separating them. Timing is critical for an effective backgame: at the end of the day, there is no reason having 2 nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to break up this right away, while your competitor is getting their checkers home, owing to the fact that you don’t have other spare checkers to move! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you might preserve your position up till your opposer gives you a chance to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to try and get your competitor to hit them in this case!

 

Backgammon – Three Main Plans

In astonishingly general terms, there are three basic tactics used. You want to be agile enough to hop between strategies almost instantly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This consists of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to manage, to block in the competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most adequate strategy at the begining of the match. You can create the wall anywhere inbetween your 11-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game advances.

The Blitz

This consists of locking your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your opposer on the bar. For example, if your opposer rolls an early two and moves one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a five-five, you will be able to play six/one six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opponent is then in serious dire straits due to the fact that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!

The Backgame

This course of action is where you have 2 or more anchors in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point filled by at a minimum two of your checkers.) It must be employed when you are decidedly behind as this strategy greatly improves your opportunities. The best places for anchors are close to your opponent’s smaller points and either on abutting points or with a single point separating them. Timing is essential for a powerful backgame: after all, there is no reason having two nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break apart this straight away, while your competitor is shifting their pieces home, because you don’t have other additional pieces to shift! In this situation, it’s more favorable to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position up till your opponent provides you an opportunity to hit, so it may be an excellent idea to attempt and get your opposer to hit them in this case!

 

The Essential Facts of Backgammon Game Plans – Part One

The goal of a Backgammon game is to move your checkers around the game board and bear them off the board quicker than your opposing player who works just as hard to attempt the same buthowever they move in the opposing direction. Succeeding in a round in Backgammon requires both tactics and good luck. How far you can move your pieces is left to the numbers from rolling the dice, and the way you shift your checkers are determined by your overall gambling plans. Enthusiasts use differing strategies in the differing stages of a game depending on your positions and opponent’s.

The Running Game Technique

The aim of the Running Game technique is to entice all your checkers into your home board and pull them off as fast as you could. This strategy concentrates on the pace of shifting your pieces with absolutely no efforts to hit or stop your competitor’s checkers. The ideal time to use this plan is when you think you can move your own pieces a lot faster than the opposing player does: when 1) you have a fewer pieces on the game board; 2) all your checkers have past your opponent’s checkers; or 3) the opponent doesn’t use the hitting or blocking technique.

The Blocking Game Plan

The main goal of the blocking strategy, by the title, is to stop your opponent’s pieces, temporarily, while not fretting about moving your chips rapidly. Once you’ve established the barrier for your opponent’s movement with a couple of chips, you can shift your other pieces rapidly off the board. The player should also have a good plan when to extract and move the checkers that you employed for the blockade. The game gets interesting when the competitor utilizes the same blocking tactic.

 

Backgammon – 3 Basic Schemes

In exceptionally simple terms, there are 3 main tactics employed. You must be able to switch strategies almost instantly as the action of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This is comprised of creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you might manage, to lock in the competitor’s checkers that are located on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most adequate procedure at the begining of the game. You can create the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game advances.

The Blitz

This is composed of closing your home board as quick as as you can while keeping your opponent on the bar. e.g., if your competitor rolls an early 2 and moves one checker from your 1-point to your three-point and you then toss a 5-5, you will be able to play 6/1 6/1 8/3 eight/three. Your challenger is now in big-time dire straits seeing that they have two checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have 2 or higher anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point consisting of at least two of your checkers.) It needs to be used when you are decidedly behind as this action much improves your opportunities. The strongest locations for anchors are near your opponent’s lower points and also on adjacent points or with one point in between. Timing is important for an effective backgame: after all, there’s no reason having two nice anchors and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break apart this right away, while your competitor is shifting their checkers home, owing to the fact that you don’t have other extra checkers to move! In this case, it’s better to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to maintain your position up till your opponent gives you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a good idea to try and get your challenger to get them in this situation!

 

Backgammon – Three General Plans

In very general terms, there are 3 chief tactics employed. You need to be able to hop between strategies quickly as the course of the match unfolds.

The Blockade

This comprises of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you are able to manage, to lock in the opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most acceptable procedure at the start of the game. You can assemble the wall anyplace within your 11-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the match progresses.

The Blitz

This is comprised of closing your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your challenger on the bar. i.e., if your competitor rolls an early two and shifts one checker from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you are able to play six/one six/one 8/3 8/3. Your opposer is then in big-time difficulty because they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!

The Backgame

This plan is where you have 2 or higher anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point consisting of at least 2 of your checkers.) It needs to be employed when you are extremely behind as this plan much improves your chances. The strongest locations for anchor spots are near your opponent’s lower points and either on adjoining points or with a single point in between. Timing is integral for a competent backgame: at the end of the day, there’s no reason having two nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break up this straight away, while your opponent is getting their pieces home, seeing that you don’t have other additional checkers to shift! In this case, it’s better to have checkers on the bar so that you might preserve your position up till your opposer provides you an opportunity to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to attempt and get your competitor to get them in this case!